Boost Your Climbing Game with Stronger Wrists: Exercises for Rock Climbers
Hey climbers! If you’ve been training recently, it’s likely that you have been focusing on your finger strength. After all, finger strength is crucial for gripping those small edges and sending your projects. But there’s more to it than just that: while finger strength is undoubtedly important, wrist strength and stability plays a massive role in your climbing performance, too.
Why Wrist Stability Matters
Your wrists might not be the first thing that comes to mind when you think about climbing strength, but they’re critical when it comes to stabilizing forces from your hand to your body. While the tendons of your finger flexors cross the wrist, there are several muscles that cross the wrist joint and add stability to the distal upper extremity. Check out the anatomy below to get an idea of the muscles of the forearm and hand! The muscles and ligaments surrounding the wrist also take on your body weight while climbing, and are important for stabilizing your hand on slanted or sloping holds.
Image credit: https://swolverine.com/blogs/blog/forearm-workout-5-forearm-exercises-to-build-more-strength
Wrist injuries in climbing tend to present with trouble in a plank or push up position, pinky sided wrist pain, clicking or catching, and pain with certain hold positions like a gaston, sloper, or mantle.
So, to help you climb stronger and reduce likelihood of injury, let’s talk about three effective exercises to enhance wrist stability.
1. Wrist Extension with Dumbbell
This exercise is fantastic for targeting the muscles responsible for extending your wrist, which helps with overall wrist stability. Here’s how to do it:
Sit on a bench or chair with your forearm resting on your thigh, palm facing down, and your wrist hanging off the edge.
Hold a light dumbbell in your hand.
Slowly lift the dumbbell by extending your wrist upwards.
Lower the weight back to the starting position with control.
Aim for 2-3 sets of 10-15 reps on each wrist. Start light to avoid overloading the tendons and gradually increase the weight as your strength improves.
2. Inverted Kettlebell Overhead Press
This one’s a bit more challenging but excellent for developing wrist stability while also coordinating with your shoulder muscles. Here’s how to perform it:
Grab a kettlebell and hold it upside down by the handle.
Press the kettlebell overhead, keeping your wrist in a neutral position throughout the movement.
Lower it back down slowly, maintaining control.
This exercise forces you to stabilize the kettlebell in an unconventional way, which strengthens the muscles around your wrist, while also engaging the rotator cuff muscles of the shoulder. Try 2-3 sets of 8-12 reps. Start with a light kettlebell (7-10lbs) before progressing weight. Chalk is also recommended to keep your grip secure!
3. Sloper Training on a Hangboard
Sloper holds are notoriously tough, decreasing the help from your finger pulleys, and increasing the forces through the wrist. Training slopers not only strengthens your wrists but also helps with your grip and technique on less positive holds. Here’s an example of how to set this up into your routine:
Use a hangboard with sloper grips.
Begin by hanging from the slopers with shoulders engaged and straight or slightly bent elbows.
Focus on keeping your wrists straight and strong as you hang for short intervals.
Start with feet touching the ground if necessary, and progress to full body weight and even added weight if able.
Start with shorter hang times and longer rest time (5 seconds on, 10 seconds off). Progress as able to longer hang times and shorter rest times (7-10 seconds on, 3-5 seconds off). A typical rep scheme would be 3 sets of 5 reps with 3-5 minutes of rest between sets.
Wrapping Up
These exercises are just a few of our favorites for improving wrist stability, and they complement your finger training well. Remember, this is not an exhaustive list—there are many other great exercises out there. If you feel like your wrists are a weak spot in your climbing, incorporating these into your routine may make a difference in your climbing performance and overall wrist health. If you want more tailored help book a free discover with Dr. Emily here!
Stay strong, and keep climbing!
Written by: Dr. Emily, DPT and Climbing Enthusiast
